Boring Pinot Noir

In the 6/30/07 issue of The Wine Spectator Matt Kramer's column is titled "Has Pinot Noir Become Boring?" and like most of his writing, it is well worth reading. Matt points out how the ever growing use of the so called "Dijon Clones" of pinot noir is making all to many bottlings of pinot noir boringly identical. These clones, identifiable by their numbered names like 777, 667 or 115 among others all to often feature pleasant, but simple big ripe fruit flavors that overwhelm nuance, elegance and, most of all, the diversity of flavors that individual sites can give pinot noir. While these clones have their place in blends and the ability to add fruit and color to a wine, few offer the complexity of clones like Pommard, Wädenswil, Martini and others. I find few wines dominated by Dijon clone pinot noir that I find really exciting.

Our own wines and new plantings are dominated by Pommard with a healthy assortment of other clones, including Dijon clones, that in judicious amounts add complexity to our wines and offer our winemaker, Thomas Houseman, a greater range of options from vintage to vintage when assembling our blends. We're also seeking to offer even a greater diversity of character as we will be planting clones like Martini, Calera and Swan on the hillside vineyard in front of the winery next year.